Home ATV Florida Forum ATV Florida Where to Ride? ATV Florida Links Advertise


Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Loading/unloading ATV from an unhooked trailer.  (Read 6910 times)
tac1
Contributing Member
Newbie
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 17


View Profile

Ignore
« on: January 30, 2018, 05:11:11 PM »

Hello Forum,

I keep my ATV parked and secured under my carport which has a concrete floor. The problem with this is that I have to hook up the trailer to my truck every time I want to unload and load the ATV from the trailer so the front won’t tip up.
I placed 2 cinder blocks under the rear of the trailer but I haven’t attempted to drive the ATV off yet. I was thinking of placing 2 more cinder blocks up front so that most of the trailers weight (1600 lbs total with ATV) can be stabilized. This way I can safely drive the ATV on and off the trailer without having to hook it up to my truck.

Anyone here try this or have any better ideas?  

Should I use 4 cinder blocks or but 4 jack stands instead?

I appreciate your input, recommendations, or your own way of doing this.

Thanks!
Logged
TRIPOLAR
Junior Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 55


View Profile

Ignore
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2018, 05:53:15 PM »

Block/chock the wheels and block up the back end.  That's all you need, backs right off.  I've done it without blocking the back end.  Just go slow so the trailer goes back down slowly in the front.
Logged
tac1
Contributing Member
Newbie
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 17


View Profile

Ignore
« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2018, 06:30:57 PM »

OK. Thank you TRIPOLAR!
Logged
tac1
Contributing Member
Newbie
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 17


View Profile

Ignore
« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2018, 03:14:32 PM »

Block/chock the wheels and block up the back end.  That's all you need, backs right off.  I've done it without blocking the back end.  Just go slow so the trailer goes back down slowly in the front.


I was trying to post a picture but it won't post.

Well, I placed 1 cinder block under each rear corner of the trailer, lowered the rear ramp, lowered the front trailer jack enough so that most of the weight is resting on the rear cinder blocks, put the atv in low & 4WD & I was able to successfully drive the ATV onto the trailer. I didn't even chock the tires & the trailer still did not move!

Now, this will not be the norm. I will be heading to Harbor Freight tonight for some wheel chocks (I will chock both wheels). The point is that it worked with just 2 blocks installed under the rear so I'm sure that with chocking the tires as well I won't have any issues.

FYI: It's a 5 x 8 trailer but it's heavy duty. It has 15" wheels, 3000 lb load capacity,  & a 3500 lb axle.
Custom made from a company in Davie, FL.

Thanks for the advice!  Grin
Logged
TRIPOLAR
Junior Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 55


View Profile

Ignore
« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2018, 08:59:58 AM »

 Toast
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Other Florida sites of interest: www.PinballShark.com

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!