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Author Topic: 400ex beats 700 raptor and 450rs video  (Read 74401 times)
DALEQUAD
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« Reply #100 on: July 12, 2010, 10:23:55 PM »

super pro is not for quads and bikes man...lol.

and there is a pro street class....lol.


you really have no idea wtf you are talking about do you
the track where that time slip was produced has a super pro bike class,
http://www.sunshinedragstrip.com/  scroll down the first page and you will see the super pro bike class winner and they combine bike and quads

i know there is a pro street class,
there IS NOT  a "street pro" class, which one of you jacks thought "spro" stood for ....like i said, the more you try to sound like you know what you are talking about...the more you actually reveal that you dont
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« Reply #101 on: July 12, 2010, 10:32:41 PM »

good catch johndoe83 i had to go back and look and thats a supper pro class and yes that is a bad light. try .052 or .035 on average and a .003 or a .001 now that good. so yes thats a bad light.
A .500 is a perfect light my friend.
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« Reply #102 on: July 12, 2010, 10:36:40 PM »

They never put me in any certain class when I go to the drag strip, Its usually test and tune and they say just line up with the bikes....I have never been given a special class to run in.

And that site says nothing about quads, and im sure you looked at the picture of the bike that said super pro and just figured thats what it was for.

That would be the super "pro bike class"...lol...get your facts together.

They would never run bikes like that with quads, NEVER, regular bikes yes, bikes like that NO!!

.500 is a perfect light in "bracket racing" if your not bracket racing, then anything below that is way better then .500.

That time slip he posted was a bracket racing time slip!!!

AND NOT FROM A QUAD!!!
« Last Edit: July 12, 2010, 10:45:20 PM by johndoe83 » Logged
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« Reply #103 on: July 12, 2010, 10:43:08 PM »

.500 is a perfect light in "bracket racing" if your not bracket racing, then anything below that is way better then .500.

That time slip he posted was a bracket racing time slip!!!


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« Reply #104 on: July 12, 2010, 10:49:10 PM »

good catch johndoe83 i had to go back and look and thats a supper pro class and yes that is a bad light. try .052 or .035 on average and a .003 or a .001 now that good. so yes thats a bad light.


   .499 is a breakout and you lose. .500 is a perfect light.

YOU are WRONG...break out is when you exceed your dial in time....lol
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DALEQUAD
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« Reply #105 on: July 12, 2010, 10:50:38 PM »

you really are dumber than a box of rocks, i have been down that track hundreds of times in cars and on bikes, they DO run bikes and quads at the same time and it isnt a super "pro" class it is "super pro" and "pro" and a .500 light, what that means is when the pre stage lights are activated it take .500 seconds from the time the top yellow light of the tree come on to the green, a "pro" tree is .400, that is where all the lights com on then green
the first video is a buddy of mine on a pro tree .400 is perfect

this is a .500 tree

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« Reply #106 on: July 12, 2010, 10:52:29 PM »

good catch johndoe83 i had to go back and look and thats a supper pro class and yes that is a bad light. try .052 or .035 on average and a .003 or a .001 now that good. so yes thats a bad light.


   .499 is a breakout and you lose. .500 is a perfect light.

YOU are WRONG...break out is when you exceed your dial in time....lol

your dial in has zero to do with your reation time ...ZERO

if you would like maybe we could get together one weekend at a track and i can explain the ins and outs of drag racing so you can stop embarassing yourself
« Last Edit: July 12, 2010, 10:54:11 PM by DALEQUAD » Logged

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« Reply #107 on: July 12, 2010, 10:54:23 PM »

good catch johndoe83 i had to go back and look and thats a supper pro class and yes that is a bad light. try .052 or .035 on average and a .003 or a .001 now that good. so yes thats a bad light.


   .499 is a breakout and you lose. .500 is a perfect light.

YOU are WRONG...break out is when you exceed your dial in time....lol
Excuse me azzjack, I didnt mean breakout I meant redlight, either way you lose with a .499 because that would mean that you left BEFORE the light turned green.
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« Reply #108 on: July 12, 2010, 11:00:20 PM »

good catch johndoe83 i had to go back and look and thats a supper pro class and yes that is a bad light. try .052 or .035 on average and a .003 or a .001 now that good. so yes thats a bad light.


   .499 is a breakout and you lose. .500 is a perfect light.

YOU are WRONG...break out is when you exceed your dial in time....lol

your dial in has zero to do with your reation time ...ZERO

if you would like maybe we could get together one weekend at a track and i can explain the ins and outs of drag racing so you can stop embarassing yourself

DO you even know what that is....LOL

Dial in time is the difference between your time and the guy your racing against cause he or you is faster, if my dial in is 8.9 and I run a 8.8 I breakout and lose the race....your boy said that you break out and lose if your RT is less then .500....im not wrong he is, and it doesnt have anything to do with each other your right and I never said it did.....lol

you guys are idiots not me....lol....lol...lol....lol

Your still wrong chillen...lol...all .500 means is thats how long it took you to react after the green -.001 would be a red light +.001 would still be good...lol



« Last Edit: July 12, 2010, 11:02:04 PM by johndoe83 » Logged
Turboderf
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« Reply #109 on: July 12, 2010, 11:51:18 PM »

5 pages of what BS just show up and race then talk smack ...who cares whos faster
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« Reply #110 on: July 13, 2010, 12:48:04 AM »

shoot you live in my neighborhood...do you wanna race??...lol
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« Reply #111 on: July 13, 2010, 08:04:27 AM »

good catch johndoe83 i had to go back and look and thats a supper pro class and yes that is a bad light. try .052 or .035 on average and a .003 or a .001 now that good. so yes thats a bad light.


   .499 is a breakout and you lose. .500 is a perfect light.

YOU are WRONG...break out is when you exceed your dial in time....lol

your dial in has zero to do with your reation time ...ZERO

if you would like maybe we could get together one weekend at a track and i can explain the ins and outs of drag racing so you can stop embarassing yourself

DO you even know what that is....LOL

Dial in time is the difference between your time and the guy your racing against cause he or you is faster, if my dial in is 8.9 and I run a 8.8 I breakout and lose the race....your boy said that you break out and lose if your RT is less then .500....im not wrong he is, and it doesnt have anything to do with each other your right and I never said it did.....lol

you guys are idiots not me....lol....lol...lol....lol

Your still wrong chillen...lol...all .500 means is thats how long it took you to react after the green -.001 would be a red light +.001 would still be good...lol





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« Reply #112 on: July 13, 2010, 08:23:24 AM »

do you know the diffrents is from full tree and pro tree?  Bang Head Bang Head when i get off work to day i will post the time slip. my son run both pro tree and full tree and the time slip is going off full tree.  :lecture.gifand johndoe 83 your write -.001 is a red light +.001 is a good light. First Place
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« Reply #113 on: July 13, 2010, 08:28:42 AM »

turboderf you must have got a (450r ) if honda warranty suck LOL
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440ex
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« Reply #114 on: July 13, 2010, 08:34:30 AM »

here is where we run   http://www.unioncountydragway.net/  http://newdayphoto.phanfare.com/ if you go to the pics you will also see a pic of my dog triplex his a blue pit.
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« Reply #115 on: July 13, 2010, 09:03:20 AM »

turboderf you must have got a (450r ) if honda warranty suck LOL

Yep 2 450s 1 good old 250r
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« Reply #116 on: July 13, 2010, 10:01:55 AM »

For you boys that are from South Carolina we know your special, http://www.staginglight.com/guide/react.html show where it says a .001 is a perfect tree.  3 Stooges
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« Reply #117 on: July 13, 2010, 10:22:33 AM »

Holy cow!!!! Did'nt this all start from a vid of a 400 beating a 450? I think you all should put em on the trails where they were intended. I got a 440EX with a bunch of aftermarket stuff that i'll put up against whatever in the woods (the exception being Borich,Kiser, Mcgill's bikes) The straight line stuff is mostly bike, where woods racing is alot more about the combination of the bike and rider. Anyone with deep pockets can build or have built a 120+mph bike. Build one to go through the woods fast ,where turning and various other tasks come into play if you want to go this overboard with the challenges and gauntlets being thrown down! Build a bike that is an all round performer, then run mouths.Or better yet come to an FTR hare scramble and lets see what you got. I know most of you posting on here. Most of you know me from the SSQSA or FTR. I will be there this season. I'm curious to see how badass some of you really are!
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« Reply #118 on: July 13, 2010, 11:18:29 AM »

For you boys that are from South Carolina we know your special, http://www.staginglight.com/guide/react.html show where it says a .001 is a perfect tree.  3 Stooges


Weird... that website makes them boys looks like retards...
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« Reply #119 on: July 13, 2010, 12:30:50 PM »

it gose by what timming set up you runing by. we run a compulink star trak lights. that will give you a diffrent rt cuz off the set up thay have. this is the slip info i will post it when i get off work. slip info.
R/T...      .O52
60'...       1.744
330'...     5.290
1/8...      8.442
MPH...      74.84
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« Reply #120 on: July 13, 2010, 12:44:41 PM »

I understand what your saying and it makes better sense that way but I've never seen a track use that method.
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« Reply #121 on: July 13, 2010, 12:53:37 PM »

Holy cow!!!! Did'nt this all start from a vid of a 400 beating a 450? I think you all should put em on the trails where they were intended. I got a 440EX with a bunch of aftermarket stuff that i'll put up against whatever in the woods (the exception being Borich,Kiser, Mcgill's bikes) The straight line stuff is mostly bike, where woods racing is alot more about the combination of the bike and rider. Anyone with deep pockets can build or have built a 120+mph bike. Build one to go through the woods fast ,where turning and various other tasks come into play if you want to go this overboard with the challenges and gauntlets being thrown down! Build a bike that is an all round performer, then run mouths.Or better yet come to an FTR hare scramble and lets see what you got. I know most of you posting on here. Most of you know me from the SSQSA or FTR. I will be there this season. I'm curious to see how badass some of you really are!

Yeah deffinetly, Ive had my quad set up for MX, Flat track, Trail riding, Hair scrambles, it was killer fast for all that stuff, thats why its good at drag racing also.

Unfortunatly, now there is NOWHERE to ride within 2 hours of where I live, the nearest place is a Drag Strip thats 1 hour away, If I try to ride in my neighborhood, they will impound my ATV, with loading and unloading and stops at the store, it damn near takes 5 hours round trip just for me to ride for a few hours.

My quad is a all round performer, since everything is so far away and I cant even ride in my own neighborhood, I have it ready for drag racing.

I could switch it back to MX or trails in 30 mins if I needed to, but I wouldnt be able to ride it anywhere, so it stays ready to drag race.

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« Reply #122 on: July 13, 2010, 01:05:18 PM »

it gose by what timming set up you runing by. we run a compulink star trak lights. that will give you a diffrent rt cuz off the set up thay have. this is the slip info i will post it when i get off work. slip info.
R/T...      .O52
60'...       1.744
330'...     5.290
1/8...      8.442
MPH...      74.84

i also understand why there was alot of confusion.....with that timing system, a .501 light would be very bad
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« Reply #123 on: July 13, 2010, 02:16:23 PM »

glad i could clear it up. so now you can sign up  Deal to get your azzies handed to in a drag  Drive lol
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« Reply #124 on: July 13, 2010, 02:20:25 PM »

Motoplex in september?
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