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Author Topic: Axle Replacement  (Read 5548 times)
RaptItUp
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« on: March 31, 2006, 01:27:56 PM »

I 'm thinking about changing the axle on my Raptor 660, rather than pay to have it done.  Anyone have any tips, what to watch out for etc....   Is it worth it to do it myself.  I have about 50 - 60 hours of trail riding on it.  Should I be ready to change any bearings. 

Thanks
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TRX450R_Racer
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« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2006, 04:12:49 PM »

If you have mechanical ability it isn't hard. I would definitly change the rear axle bearings and seals while you're in there. You will need a pipe wrench or a big adjustable and a cheater bar to loosen and tighten the axle nut. Make sure you use red loctite on the axle nut so it doesn't come loose.
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RaptItUp
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« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2006, 09:21:08 AM »

  450R,  Thanks for the info. 
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Mars
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2006, 10:44:29 AM »

I second that, do the bearings while your there.
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04 Z400
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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2006, 11:17:51 AM »

No problem, Your Welcome.
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wheelie_boy
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« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2008, 11:58:17 AM »

So to change the axle all I would need is something to loosen the axle nut and some loctite?  How difficult will this be for someone like me with very limited mechanical expertise?  How long on average does it take to change the axle? 

Thanks for any info.
Greg
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05 kx 250f
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« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2008, 12:03:55 PM »

Here is a right up I did on the ATVRiders. It pertains to a 450R but all quads are basically the same.

If you don't already have them order the G-Force wrenches. They make it a lot easier. First thing you do it Break loose the axle jamb nut and spin it most of the way back. You want to do this first because you need the brakes to hold the axle still. Then loosen the collar itself until you can see the ring that is underneath it. The axle nut is standard right hand threads. Now loosen the pinch bolts on the carrier so you can slide the chain off of the rear sprocket. Now remove the rear caliper, wheels and hubs. Next pick the ring out of the groove in the axle and slide it off the axle. You should be able to pull the axle out from the left side.

If I were you I would also install new carrier bearings and seals while I had it a part. I do mine every year. I would bet a weeks pay they are SHOT!

From here you need a set of snap ring pliers to remove the large snap ring that holds on the rear brake stay. Once the snap ring is off the brake stay should pop off. It isstubborn sometimes. You have to pry it/wiggle it off. Now the carrier should slide out of the same side as the axle did.

Next is to remove the seals and pound out the old bearings. Use a long, larger flat bladed screwdriver to pry the seals out. A punch or a long 1/2 drive extension will work for the bearings. The first one is tricky because of the collar in between the bearings. The chain side has 2 bearings. It's easier to bang out the single right side first. I use 2 4X4 pieces of wood about 12" long to support the carrier. The collar in the center is going to be in the way until you get the first one most of the way out. You have to thingy the punch/extension on an angle as to push the collar over slightly. At first you will just be catching the edge of the inner race of the bearing and the tool will keep slipping off. Don't get discouraged, it will come out. After the first one comes out the collar will fall out The other side is a breeze. I always put the new bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours so they contract and are easier to install. Some people put the carrier in the oven to make it expand also. I don't do that. Now clean everything up. Coat the whole inside of the collar with anti seize. You can bang it just with a hammer until it is below the lip. Then bang it in the rest of the way using the round side of the 1/2" drive extension, staying along the outer edge/race. DO NOT bang on the inner race. Move the extension from side to side evenly banging it down until it hits bottom. You will hear a solid ting when it's all the way down. Flip it over and put in the collar next. Now bang in the other 2 bearings. Next is to push the seals in. Try not to bang to hard on the seals. You should be able to push them in by hand. A little WD40 on everything will help it slide together.

Now slide the carrier in and install the new axle. Its' easy. Good Luck!!

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« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2008, 12:29:45 PM »

Wow, ok Thanks a lot for the info.  Also I was planning on buying the gforce +2+4 axle, do you guys think this is a strong enough axle for jumping?  And do you think the +2 will be too wide with the stock front width?
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Chevy1500z71
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« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2008, 10:27:22 PM »

hey, if you put an axle in id like to buy your stock axle.
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wheelie_boy
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« Reply #9 on: May 27, 2008, 07:32:54 PM »

hey, if you put an axle in id like to buy your stock axle.

My stock axle is bent, but if you still want it I can check and see if we still have it.
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05 kx 250f
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« Reply #10 on: May 27, 2008, 09:52:49 PM »

hey, if you put an axle in id like to buy your stock axle.

My stock axle is bent, but if you still want it I can check and see if we still have it.

no thanks, i was looking for the guy with the raptors axle, because a stock raptor axle fits as a plus 4 axle on a blaster...
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YFZ450-Tampa
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« Reply #11 on: May 27, 2008, 10:59:24 PM »

I think TRX450 (Frank) cover just about all the details, now there is a lil detail you should look for, Yamaha uses two small allen head screws on the axle nut for safety to keep it from getting loose, if you don't take those out you won't be able to get the nut out and will damage the threads on the axle.

Have fun
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Luis 
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