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Author Topic: need an auto machanics help  (Read 11161 times)
HolyLandMan
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« on: March 19, 2010, 03:55:30 PM »

OK well i bought a 1993 jeep grand Cherokee with a 5.2 v8 from my moms friend for $100 and I'm making it into a mudtruck. but currently it is not running. and the problem for it not running is that its not getting spark to the spark plugs. but when you take the plug that goes to the coil to the distributer cap and put a spark plug into the end of it, it gets spark. so i went and bought a new distributer cap and rotor but the same thing is happening. so the problem is something in the distributer cap but i have no clue what it is... any help would be greatly appreciated.
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yfz122
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« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2010, 07:18:26 PM »

C.P.S. camshaft position sensor  I would need the vehicle to prove it. Your local shops should be able to handle that no problem.
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yfz122
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« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2010, 07:22:19 PM »


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
1993 Jeep Truck Grand Cherokee 4WD V8-318 5.2L VIN Y MFI
 Vehicle Level  Powertrain Management  Computers and Control Systems  Camshaft Position Sensor  Testing and Inspection 
 
 
Testing and Inspection
Notes
 
NOTE: For this test, an analog (non-digital) voltmeter is needed. Do not remove the distributor connector from the distributor. To perform a complete test of the Camshaft Position Sensor and its circuitry, refer to the DRB II diagnostic tester. Also see the appropriate Diagnostic Charts. To test the sensor only, refer to the following:

Using small paper clips, insert them into the backside of the distributor wire harness connector to make contact with the terminals. Be sure that the connector is not damaged when inserting the paper clips. Attach voltmeter leads to these paper clips.



Connect the positive (+) voltmeter lead into the sensor output wire. This is done at the distributor wire harness connector.
Connect the negative (-) voltmeter lead into the ground wire.
Set the voltmeter to the 15 Volt DC scale.
Remove distributor cap from distributor (two screws). Rotate (crank) the engine until the distributor rotor is pointed towards the rear of vehicle. The movable pulse ring should now be within the sensor pickup.
Turn ignition key to ON position. Voltmeter should read approximately 5.0 volts.
If voltage is not present, check the voltmeter leads for a good connection.
If voltage is still not present, check for voltage at the supply wire.
If voltage is not present at supply wire, check for voltage at pin-7 of Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-way connector. Leave the PCM connector connected for this test.
If voltage is still not present, perform vehicle test using the DRB II diagnostic scan tool.
If voltage is present at pin-7, but not at the supply wire:
Check continuity between the supply wire. This is checked between the distributor connector and pin-7 at the PCM. If continuity is not present, repair the harness as necessary.
Check for continuity between the Camshaft Position Sensor output wire and pin-44 at the PCM. If continuity is not present, repair the harness as necessary.
Check for continuity between the ground circuit wire at the distributor connector and ground. If continuity is not present, repair the harness as necessary.
While observing the voltmeter, crank the engine with ignition switch. The voltmeter needle should fluctuate between 0 and 5 volts while the engine is cranking. This verifies that the camshaft position sensor in the distributor is operating properly and a sync pulse signal is being generated.
If sync pulse signal is not present, replacement of the Camshaft Position Sensor is necessary.


 
 





 

 
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yfz122
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« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2010, 07:26:56 PM »

I don't know if this will help. The labor charge for replacing is NO MORE than 1 hour. Does not include diagnosis or tax.

What shape/ how old are the plug wires? Coil could also be weak.
« Last Edit: March 19, 2010, 08:12:59 PM by yfz122 » Logged

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« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2010, 11:17:00 PM »

Sounds to me like it's either the flux capacitor or the doofilator valve.
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« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2010, 11:37:04 PM »

i had a problem where i would get spark on the distributor cap but wouldnt get spark to a few cylinders at the end of the plug wires, ended up being just a really nasty set of spark plugs. changed the plugs and it ran great again. inspect your wires and plugs before anything else, if you plugs or wires are junky the spark may never make it to the plug tip, could also be a week coil, throw in a week coil with a set of fouled plugs and that could be you issue right there. it could very well be something else but always check the simple things first
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Sleazy_Rider78
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« Reply #6 on: March 19, 2010, 11:38:42 PM »

Sounds like you are low on blinker fluid.
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HolyLandMan
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« Reply #7 on: March 19, 2010, 11:46:44 PM »

C.P.S. camshaft position sensor I would need the vehicle to prove it. Your local shops should be able to handle that no problem.

i bought the c.p.s today for 53$ and put it in and it didn't help at all,but i am getting power at the C.P.S, theres a crank shaft position sensor that does the same thing. but tomorrow I'm going to check the plugs and wires before i do the crank shaft.p.s....thanks for looking up that stuff, it was a big help
« Last Edit: March 19, 2010, 11:57:23 PM by HolyLandMan » Logged

06' Raptor 700r
GYTR pipe, air filter and billet stack
Rear HD's
Front GNCC
GYTR- a-arm and, chassis skids
PC3
White Maier Plastic
GYTR Blue drip Graphics
G-Force axle
GTT XC linkage

2002 Chevy Silveraldo(5.3L)
True dual Flowmaster super 44s, Chipped, K&N Cold air intake. More to come
HolyLandMan
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« Reply #8 on: March 19, 2010, 11:48:32 PM »

Sounds to me like it's either the flux capacitor or the doofilator valve.

are you making up st!T? lol
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06' Raptor 700r
GYTR pipe, air filter and billet stack
Rear HD's
Front GNCC
GYTR- a-arm and, chassis skids
PC3
White Maier Plastic
GYTR Blue drip Graphics
G-Force axle
GTT XC linkage

2002 Chevy Silveraldo(5.3L)
True dual Flowmaster super 44s, Chipped, K&N Cold air intake. More to come
HolyLandMan
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« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2010, 11:51:04 PM »

Sounds like you are low on blinker fluid.


hey look we got a funny guy, well since you live in Davie and i live right here in cooper city lets go ride!
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06' Raptor 700r
GYTR pipe, air filter and billet stack
Rear HD's
Front GNCC
GYTR- a-arm and, chassis skids
PC3
White Maier Plastic
GYTR Blue drip Graphics
G-Force axle
GTT XC linkage

2002 Chevy Silveraldo(5.3L)
True dual Flowmaster super 44s, Chipped, K&N Cold air intake. More to come
gery350
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« Reply #10 on: March 20, 2010, 12:08:38 AM »

im telling you right now. if you got spark its not the crank or cam sensor. make sure the sparks jumping at least one inch to ground. if its not you may have a bad coil. if you do have an  in inch of spark. follow the path of the spark(coil-coil wire-cap-rotor-spark plug wires til you find the weakest link.
hth, gery
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HolyLandMan
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« Reply #11 on: March 20, 2010, 12:20:59 AM »

im telling you right now. if you got spark its not the crank or cam sensor. make sure the sparks jumping at least one inch to ground. if its not you may have a bad coil. if you do have an  in inch of spark. follow the path of the spark(coil-coil wire-cap-rotor-spark plug wires til you find the weakest link.
hth, gery

Dam i wish i woulda known to not buy the C.P.S. there is plenty of spark that comes from the coil it jumps about an inch so i guess the coil is good, and i bought a brand new cap and rotor yestrday. tomorrow i am going to check out the wires and plugs and tell you how everything works out.
thanks alot gery
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06' Raptor 700r
GYTR pipe, air filter and billet stack
Rear HD's
Front GNCC
GYTR- a-arm and, chassis skids
PC3
White Maier Plastic
GYTR Blue drip Graphics
G-Force axle
GTT XC linkage

2002 Chevy Silveraldo(5.3L)
True dual Flowmaster super 44s, Chipped, K&N Cold air intake. More to come
Baileygunns
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« Reply #12 on: March 20, 2010, 02:32:57 AM »

Try turning the key on and off 3 times leaving it in the on position the last time (with out actually starting the truck)... You're odometer should flash and read a number. That's a trouble code. Google the trouble code. You could get multiple codes, it should say done or finish after it shows the number...

This works on early Ram pick-ups so It should work on the Jeep. All made by Chrysler and have the same engine/computer.
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« Reply #13 on: March 20, 2010, 10:26:11 AM »

I had a problem years ago on a camaro (I know its not a jeep but it might help) I was getting spark, fuel, I had compresion, and the timing was dead on.  Turned out to be the ignition module.  I had spark but I didn't realize that it was orange in color, when I put the new ignition module in it was bright blue.

Now I have no idea if your jeep has it or not but it might be something to look into.  If I remember right it was only like $30 .... just thinking out loud.  Good Luck! 
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« Reply #14 on: March 20, 2010, 10:34:17 PM »

well guys i found the problem $130 and 4 parts later. the ignition coil was giving spark to the distributer, but not enough. so bought a new coil and heard that baby prrr for the first time in a year. alot of back smoke came out and filled up my whole garage that was open, and my mom start bitching at me Roll Eyes but after we reved it up to clear it all out it stopped smoking and ran and idled perfect no knocking or anything, but we took it around the lake and we thought it was oil dripping but it was power steering line. so we replaced that and went to pepboys and bought a cheerybomb glass pack  Tongue so that nice little growl. so now I'm saving for my lift and 37's. thanks for all your help guys i really appreciate it.
« Last Edit: March 20, 2010, 11:06:31 PM by HolyLandMan » Logged

06' Raptor 700r
GYTR pipe, air filter and billet stack
Rear HD's
Front GNCC
GYTR- a-arm and, chassis skids
PC3
White Maier Plastic
GYTR Blue drip Graphics
G-Force axle
GTT XC linkage

2002 Chevy Silveraldo(5.3L)
True dual Flowmaster super 44s, Chipped, K&N Cold air intake. More to come
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« Reply #15 on: March 20, 2010, 11:17:25 PM »

dam this thing has a whole bunch of torque, i took it out after everything was done and i turned out of my block in 4 low, and just got on it from a 5mph roll. the thing took off like a bat outa hell, it yanked my head back into the seat and popped the glove box out along with the plastic thing that goes around the radio...............but then right when i let off around 30mph i seen 5 cop cars at the house down the street  Shocked so i turned it around and headed back home and right when i pullled in the driveway one cop was behind me. he started giving me a long talk and i told him Ive been working on this thing for a week straight and just got it to run and i was seeing if the transmission was good (which it does) lol, so he let me go, thank god   Grin
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06' Raptor 700r
GYTR pipe, air filter and billet stack
Rear HD's
Front GNCC
GYTR- a-arm and, chassis skids
PC3
White Maier Plastic
GYTR Blue drip Graphics
G-Force axle
GTT XC linkage

2002 Chevy Silveraldo(5.3L)
True dual Flowmaster super 44s, Chipped, K&N Cold air intake. More to come
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« Reply #16 on: March 21, 2010, 07:32:43 PM »

awesome. im glad you got it it runnin. you cant beat the feelin you get when you hear it start.
well you can but............you know what i mean. Grin
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hey while im here...........klutchbuster rules!!!!!!
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y235/klutchbuster350/gery350_3.gif
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« Reply #17 on: March 21, 2010, 09:01:07 PM »

yea i know whatcha mean  Wink but it makes you feel better when you hear it start up with the glass packs on it, i took it mudding today with stock tires and height didn't get stuck once and it ran threw everything. but i popped a tire thank god i had a good spare
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06' Raptor 700r
GYTR pipe, air filter and billet stack
Rear HD's
Front GNCC
GYTR- a-arm and, chassis skids
PC3
White Maier Plastic
GYTR Blue drip Graphics
G-Force axle
GTT XC linkage

2002 Chevy Silveraldo(5.3L)
True dual Flowmaster super 44s, Chipped, K&N Cold air intake. More to come
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« Reply #18 on: March 21, 2010, 09:34:49 PM »

That is awsummmmmmm!!! good for you. Cool Cool
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« Reply #19 on: March 21, 2010, 10:32:33 PM »

theres nothing like getting an old truck to run. good luck with it.
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HolyLandMan
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« Reply #20 on: March 22, 2010, 10:04:09 AM »

does anyone know were you can get cheap lift kits and tires at?
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06' Raptor 700r
GYTR pipe, air filter and billet stack
Rear HD's
Front GNCC
GYTR- a-arm and, chassis skids
PC3
White Maier Plastic
GYTR Blue drip Graphics
G-Force axle
GTT XC linkage

2002 Chevy Silveraldo(5.3L)
True dual Flowmaster super 44s, Chipped, K&N Cold air intake. More to come
Chevy1500z71
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« Reply #21 on: March 22, 2010, 10:22:31 AM »

not sure what they have as far as lift kits but performanceoffroadcenter.com has always had the best prices on gears and lockers for me, rustysoffroad.com will definitly have al you need but i dont know about prices.
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HolyLandMan
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« Reply #22 on: March 23, 2010, 09:31:31 AM »

alright thanks alot
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06' Raptor 700r
GYTR pipe, air filter and billet stack
Rear HD's
Front GNCC
GYTR- a-arm and, chassis skids
PC3
White Maier Plastic
GYTR Blue drip Graphics
G-Force axle
GTT XC linkage

2002 Chevy Silveraldo(5.3L)
True dual Flowmaster super 44s, Chipped, K&N Cold air intake. More to come
HolyLandMan
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« Reply #23 on: March 23, 2010, 10:15:45 AM »

i found the suspension lift i would get here:

http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=30_165_252_778&products_id=3318&osCsid=0ef1d3eec0f0c3a49bb5f76e7f7f3f7c

but i cat find a 2-3inch body lift anywere



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06' Raptor 700r
GYTR pipe, air filter and billet stack
Rear HD's
Front GNCC
GYTR- a-arm and, chassis skids
PC3
White Maier Plastic
GYTR Blue drip Graphics
G-Force axle
GTT XC linkage

2002 Chevy Silveraldo(5.3L)
True dual Flowmaster super 44s, Chipped, K&N Cold air intake. More to come
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« Reply #24 on: March 23, 2010, 11:50:39 AM »

I don't think you can put a body lift on that Jeep I think its a uniboby ?? Frame/body are connected together i think....But i cud b wrong
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Never forget 343.
2004 500 SPM
 My son is a United States  Marine. SmileySmiley Semper Fidelis.
 Proud member of the Mudd Butt Mafia
    VAMPIRES SUCK BLOOD TO LIVE, POLITICIANS DO IT CUZ THE ENJOY IT!!!!!!
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