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Author Topic: fast banshee  (Read 14489 times)
bigb
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« on: June 10, 2005, 06:40:59 PM »



you only get to see one launch but that puppy is fast.  Shocked
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« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2005, 06:42:05 PM »

also my other thread got deleted even after i made it site friendly.


thanks! Angry
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« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2005, 07:09:28 AM »

ahhhhhhhhh hahahhahahhhahaaha souped up civic catchin on fire, sounds like some poor mechanical skills.



oh ya and those banshees are badass, kind of a waste of money though IMO since you can only take them down a strip.
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« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2005, 10:47:23 AM »

a banshee whit pipe and a fliter can beat a civic they are slow as sh!%
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« Reply #4 on: June 11, 2005, 10:55:06 AM »

once you build anything to that point it becomes strip only material. but that thing is fast!

i'm not too into honda cars myself and i thought that was comical as well but everytime i voice an opinion on this site i get flamed like a grilled chicken. how about those guys warming the bottles with a freaking torch  Huh
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« Reply #5 on: June 11, 2005, 12:13:16 PM »

i've never heard of that, maybe it makes it colder? unless those guys are idiots and didnt know that nitrous is suppose to be super cold so it will make the air/fuel more dense. Civic's arnt bad cars, they have one of the best aftermarkets, they are just too common for me, rather have a nissan. theres a mid 12 crx in damn near every other driveway, everyoneeeeeeee has them. Of course 240's are going to be the next civic.
anyway i could talk about cars forever, so i'll stop now.
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« Reply #6 on: June 11, 2005, 12:30:54 PM »

the porpose of warming the bottle is, when anything is heated it expands when a compressed gas expands it creates more pressure inside it's container. so a heated bottle of nitro will deliver more squeeze than a cold bottle because there is more pressure inside the bottle. but they make bottle warmers that are kind of like a heating blanket for your bottle, warming a nitrious bottle with a blow torch is down right retarded and your just asking to get mamed.
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« Reply #7 on: June 11, 2005, 12:58:09 PM »

Heating the bottles is so rediculous. I sell this gas where I work and these bottles carry a range of 1200-2200 psi depending on the application.
If you cant get enough flow w/ that pressure your doing something drastically wrong....As for keeping it cold that would be correct, Thats why people try in the racing world so many ways to keep the fuel cold, or run Alcohol like we do in out tug truck...
Some one is going to kill them self one of these days heating up the bootles and then their families will try to sue the mfg for not building an idiot proof bottle....
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« Reply #8 on: June 11, 2005, 01:33:44 PM »

^ correct but, when the bottle gets low it really does help.....alot.
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« Reply #9 on: June 11, 2005, 02:14:46 PM »

That was cool.  The civic musta been scared so it caught on fire to avoid getting whooped by the banshee!! Cheesy
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« Reply #10 on: June 11, 2005, 06:39:02 PM »

That was cool.  The civic musta been scared so it caught on fire to avoid getting whooped by the banshee!! Cheesy


lol Wink
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« Reply #11 on: June 13, 2005, 12:29:40 PM »

The point in warming the bottle is to get the bottle pressure up nitrous usally work best at around 1100 psi ... and generaqlly a cold bottle only has about 600-700 #'s ....  and  I've seen , done , known  many people to warm bottles with torches it not like it is going to catch on fire , Nitrous ITSELF IS NOT FLAMABLE ..  In this dumba$$es cause he was trying to spray WAY to much nitrous and it puddled in the Intake cause a nitrous
backfire which  is not a un common thing with people  who know nothing about n2o. they think the more the spray the faster they will go which is not always true ..   

the dummys should have just let the bottle run out and the thing would have went out on its own ..Unless they where using a toggle switch as there switch to turn on off and on and left it on ..  if that would have had a plastic intake manifold it would have most likely been in 100's of piece s.. I found it humerous ..  12 second  civics are a dime a dozen there are a few STREET DRIVEN 10.30 + et  civic/integra running around Orlando


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« Reply #12 on: June 13, 2005, 01:40:55 PM »

yamahas seems to have that effect on hondas. Grin
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« Reply #13 on: June 14, 2005, 11:00:52 AM »

1slowfox, warming anything underpressure with a torch is a horrible idea. it's just plain stupid, you can buy bottle warmers that do the job safely plus you don't look like a dipshit ricer. and n20 is flamable but only at a very high temp, but something dosen't have to burn to explode, with enough pressuse anything will pop. seeing that they are using a torch to heat a bottle i am assuming they don't have a pressure gauge. it looks they wanna go faster than thier wallet will let them.
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« Reply #14 on: June 14, 2005, 01:51:16 PM »

Like I said NITROUS(n2o) ITSELF is not flamable...

And to tell you the truths I have seen More people with bottle Warmers have bottles explode than people using torches or "Hot Boxes"... Granted  that it is stupid to warm a bottle anyways without a pressure guage though or a pressure switch ..  Most people who have problems with n2o have no business dealing with it anyways , cause most do not understand how it works .....   


what I'am disagreing with is who ever said that it is better or the bottle to be colder when actually its not ... because the bottle pressure will be way to low ..  everyone I know including myself uses  IE> progessive timers and pressure/fuel switches..



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« Reply #15 on: June 14, 2005, 03:32:16 PM »

how do you warm yours? i don't have a power adder on my '91 'stang yet but i have been leaning towards a turbo. i don't like the idea of havin gto make sure the bottle is full and retard the timing and so on. i like the idea of mash the gas and go. although i know a guy with a painless box and his is pretty much that way.
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« Reply #16 on: June 14, 2005, 03:38:17 PM »

bigb, they make a heating blanket for the bottles. Big bottles only  Wink

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« Reply #17 on: June 14, 2005, 03:48:05 PM »

dang daddy 'dats a bad banshee! i know they make blankets for bottles and any one i've known to use the juice always uses the big one  Wink i was more interested in how slowfox does it.

i'm going turbo or supercharged i just hate having to fill the bottle up all the time, i've got a real heavy foot.
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« Reply #18 on: June 14, 2005, 03:54:22 PM »

go with the supercharger! bottles are for babies Wink
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« Reply #19 on: June 14, 2005, 04:00:19 PM »

well the thing with the supercharger is, how should i say it..... i'm a baller on a budget. that's the best way i can describe it. i can build a turbo kit out of the junk yard real cheap but the charger is gonna be a little harder to come by in my price range.
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« Reply #20 on: June 15, 2005, 10:45:53 AM »

I'd go with the turbo kit and find a jy  turbo or even ebay .. how much are u looking to spend and what size single are you wanting to go with ?

How are my kit(s) going to be run ... I'am going to be running a plate and a fogger .. probably gonna be a 150  outta the hole and a 150 down track for the second stage .. and if We dont used a hot bax we are most liekly gonna run bottle blankets ...



ALSO I'ampretty sure SUMMIT sales smaller botle warmers now .. there not NOS or NX name brand but who cares !


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« Reply #21 on: June 15, 2005, 05:06:42 PM »

oh i was under the impression you already had it on your car.


i am wanting to spend as little as possible. what i have seen work real good for power and street use is the turbos off of the late 80's early 90's thunderbird turbo coupes, i belive they are a t3 you have to go with a twin set up because they are small but they are damn near a dime a dozen. so that's the one option i have came up with so far seeing as there are enough turbo coupes around to make it happen, any other ideas?
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« Reply #22 on: June 16, 2005, 10:20:02 AM »

Have you tried TurboMustangs.com ?? Also I have run a plate and fogger on my other motors just not that big of a shot ..


Also 2(a pair) of any of these turbos will work ..

The first list is best for tiwn turbo setups.

Here is the list of turbocharged cars:
BUICK GNX 87 3.8L GAR TB0348
BUICK Monte Carlo/Regal 78-83 3.8L carbed GAR TB0348
BUICK Riviera 80-85 3.8L GAR TB0308
BUICK Grand National/T-Type 86-87 3.8L (Intercooled) GAR TB0348 (TA48)
BUICK Trans Am 89 3.8L GAR TB0348 (water)
BUICK Century 78 3.8L GAR TB0301
BUICK Century 79 3.8L GAR TB0304
BUICK Century 80 3.8L GAR TB0308
GMC Syclone/Typhoon 4.3L Mitsu TDO6 17C/10cm2

CHRYSLER Conquest, Intercooled 87 2.6L MHI TD05
CHRYSLER Laser (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04
CHRYSLER Laser (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Town & Country 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER Town & Country 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Charger/Shelby 87-90 2.2L GAR TB03 (water)
CHRYSLER Shelby CSX-Daytona/Baron GTC/Shadow ES 89-90 2.2L GAR TB03 VNT (variable nozzle)

DODGE 600 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE 600 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Aries 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Caravan 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Conquest (Intercooled) 87 2.6L MHI TD05
DODGE Daytona 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Lancer 89 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Omni 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Shadow 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Spirit 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H

EAGLE Talon (Manual) 90-94 2.0L MHI TD05H (45 trim)
EAGLE Talon (Auto) 90-95 2.0L MHI TD04
EAGLE Talon (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim)

FORD Mustang GT 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
FORD Mustang GT/T-bird 83-84 GAR (AiR) TB0344
FORD Probe GT 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only)
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (watercooled)
FORD T-Bird 87-88 (water) IHI RHB52
FORD Fiesta 90+ 1.6L GAR T2
FORD Escort 84-86 IHI RHB5

MAZDA 626, MX6 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W
MAZDA 323 GTX turbo 88-89 1.6L IHI RHB52W (water)

MERCEDES 300D, SDT, TD 78-84 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL 78-83 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL (Calif.) 86-87 3.0L GAR TB0359

MERCURY Capri 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERCURY Cougar 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERKUR XR4Ti 85-88 2.3L GAR TB0344

MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim)
MITSUBISHI Galant (Manual) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Starion (Intercooled) 85-87 2.6L MHI TD05

PLYMOUTH Acclaim 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Conquest, Intercooled 85-89 2.6L MHI TD05
PLYMOUTH Laser (Auto) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD04
PLYMOUTH Laser (Manual) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD05H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Voyager 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H

PONTIAC Sunbird GT 88-90 2.0L GAR T2
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 84-86 1.8L GAR T2
PONTIAC Grand Prix 89-90 3.1L GAR T25 (water)

SAAB 9000 87-88 2.0L GAR TB0356
SAAB 900 87 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)
SAAB 900 84-86 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)
SAAB 9000 85-86 2.0L GAR TB0343
SAAB 900 (8V, APC) 82-84 2.0L GAR TB0321

VOLVO 200 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0313
VOLVO 740 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 740 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 760 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 760 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 780 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 780 90 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 780 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 940 91-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 200 Watercooled Upgrade 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0368
VOLVO 740 (Oil Cooled) 83-85 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 740 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 760 (Oil Cooled) 83-86 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 760 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363

VW Passat, 97+ (oil) 1.8L GAR GT15

GAR=Garrett=AiResearch, MHI=Mitsubishi Heavy industries, MIT=Mitsubishi

Here are a some cars that have intercoolers, please feel free to add more to the list:

1999+ Powerstroke Turbo Diesel
1984+ SVO/TBird Turbo
1987+ Turbo Regal (Grand National)
1990-1994 Turbo DSMs
1988-1992 Ford Probe GT Turbos
Some Turbo Volvos
1985+ SAAB 9000s
1984+ SAAB 900s
Big Rigs


Here are some turbos thats be better for a single setup on a V8:
HX Holset turbos off of cummins diesels.
Powerstroke Diesels with TP-38s (please note that these turbos have a known oil hookup issue.)
T4s from a lot of stuff. (I.E. Heavy duty fords F700s and bigger, some international trucks like the DT466, DT444, Ice trucks, budwiser trucks, some U-Hauls) They come with many different trims of turbos.



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bigb
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« Reply #23 on: June 16, 2005, 11:42:07 AM »

 Shocked

holy list! chrysler turboed a newyorker  Huh how funny is that?

i guess i need to hit big3 it's a salvage yard for big trucks here in pinellas. maybe i can get a single turbo cheaper than i thought. thanks for the info.
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« Reply #24 on: June 16, 2005, 12:32:07 PM »

Yea all u have to do is just look around ...


I had a turbo off of a MAC dump truck that needed a $300 rebuild given to me.. I gave it to one of my friends he rebuilt it himself .. I dunno hwo long it will last but he rebuilt it ..


I have a a probe intercooler and turbo at my house debating on making a turbo kit for a quad because the probe turbo is SMALL ...


I also have a .42 in a/r w/ .108 ex. a/r sitting here debating on putting it on a stock 302  as a small single project just to have something to mess around with ..

This would probbaly work as a good small single ..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=7980361236&rd=1



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Master Power T04E 60-1 Turbo .70 A/R

NEVER on the car...Still in the original box...Great turbo for a 500+hp Single car, or a sick Twin car...


$550



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« Reply #25 on: June 16, 2005, 10:27:04 PM »

thats a normal  honda  Grin
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« Reply #26 on: June 17, 2005, 02:59:14 AM »

Ha thats a funny movie, I love the gangsta wanna be commentary.
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« Reply #27 on: June 18, 2005, 09:07:40 PM »

BAD ASS BANSHEE. IT WOULD HAVE WON ANYWAY....AND THAT JAP SCRAP CIVIC IS WHERE IT BELONGS.....................IN THE GRAVE HOPEFULLY THEY DONT REBUILD
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« Reply #28 on: July 12, 2005, 09:22:48 PM »

"JAP SCRAP" wow who you think make banshee Roll Eyes
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« Reply #29 on: July 13, 2005, 08:12:53 AM »

dang man i hate to be in that civic Grin
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« Reply #30 on: July 22, 2005, 04:38:01 AM »

the reason for heating the bottles is becouse the nos is so cold it freezes   as for the fire you were correct it was a nitrus back fire and if u noticed the intake tube was mad of 3inch pvc
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« Reply #31 on: July 22, 2005, 09:24:58 AM »

Nitrous does not freeze in the state we think of it, nor will it ignite in any state we could ever put it into, outside of a chem lab. Also, as far as the fire coming from N2O puddling, nope. If it is a "wet" system, gas is injected with the N2O. The gas will puddle...then add a back fire and BOOM, you could get a fire issue real quick. Nirous Oxide is cold under pressure when moving and gathers moisture as it travels. Ever taken one of those spray air cans that you clean your keyboard with and sprayed it for a long time? It will ice up the exterior  from the humidity in the air. The same thing can happen internally (on the delivery system) depending on the amount of water in system. If you have sufficient water present, the jets/ports/valves/solenoids can actually "freeze" and stop the flow of nitrous.
What makes Nitrous work is the extra oxygen it delivers to your engine. It contains 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen.

The Nitrogen is basically inert as far as performance, however; delivering the oxygen is the key. It acts as a catalyst allowing your engine to burn more fuel more completely. Essentially, it adds atmosphere to your motor. Same principal is used in aceytolene (sp?) torches. The aceytolene is flammable and will burn nasty and moderate hot (ever notice the black smoke coming off the torch flame with the oxygen off? That's carbon left over from unburned fuel) Throw in the oxygen and the flame gets hotter and turns blue and all the smoke goes away because all the fuel (aceytolene) is being used.

Bottle heaters are much more safe than using a torch. In fact, using a torch is just plain foolish. The bottles are usually high grade aluminum alloy. Some these days are carbon fiber. Repeated heating and cooling an aluminum structure (like a bottle) under intense and focused heat will break down the aluminum and can cause rupture. Bottle heaters slowly and safely heat all (or at least the majority) of the bottle on a gradual basis, allowing the bottle to uniformly expand. This heating acclerates the Nitrogen and Oxygen molecules, causing the gas to "expand" which equals more registered bottle pressure.

Okay, I know I sound like a nerd. However, I've run nitrous quite a bit in numerous forms and applications. I find it to be a reliable power adder and I've never had any problem with it in the past. To me, the key is proper set up of both the system and the engine it's on. Combine that with a person with common sense and it makes for a fun time. True, the main draw back will always be having to keep those bottled filled.
« Last Edit: July 22, 2005, 09:26:30 AM by Anoriginal » Logged
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« Reply #32 on: July 22, 2005, 02:11:11 PM »

In this dumba$$es cause he was trying to spray WAY to much nitrous and it puddled in the Intake cause a nitrous
backfire which  is not a un common thing with people  who know nothing about n2o.

I've seen someone in a corvette do that.  Vette with NOS, too much nos in it and BOOM and exact same thing as this civic.

Ill try to find the video.
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1slowfox
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Its just another slow banshee !!


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« Reply #33 on: July 26, 2005, 12:04:18 PM »

nah , its not always to much it can also be in how you have the nozzle placed ..


was the vette yellow ?


ED
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« Reply #34 on: July 29, 2005, 07:44:20 AM »

yamahas seems to have that effect on hondas. Grin
GREY I WILL HAVE TO FINALLY AGREE WITH YOU ON SOMETHING
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ppark350se
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« Reply #35 on: November 17, 2005, 01:11:58 PM »

Nitrous does not freeze in the state we think of it, nor will it ignite in any state we could ever put it into, outside of a chem lab. Also, as far as the fire coming from N2O puddling, nope. If it is a "wet" system, gas is injected with the N2O. The gas will puddle...then add a back fire and BOOM, you could get a fire issue real quick. Nirous Oxide is cold under pressure when moving and gathers moisture as it travels. Ever taken one of those spray air cans that you clean your keyboard with and sprayed it for a long time? It will ice up the exterior  from the humidity in the air. The same thing can happen internally (on the delivery system) depending on the amount of water in system. If you have sufficient water present, the jets/ports/valves/solenoids can actually "freeze" and stop the flow of nitrous.
What makes Nitrous work is the extra oxygen it delivers to your engine. It contains 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen.

The Nitrogen is basically inert as far as performance, however; delivering the oxygen is the key. It acts as a catalyst allowing your engine to burn more fuel more completely. Essentially, it adds atmosphere to your motor. Same principal is used in aceytolene (sp?) torches. The aceytolene is flammable and will burn nasty and moderate hot (ever notice the black smoke coming off the torch flame with the oxygen off? That's carbon left over from unburned fuel) Throw in the oxygen and the flame gets hotter and turns blue and all the smoke goes away because all the fuel (aceytolene) is being used.

Bottle heaters are much more safe than using a torch. In fact, using a torch is just plain foolish. The bottles are usually high grade aluminum alloy. Some these days are carbon fiber. Repeated heating and cooling an aluminum structure (like a bottle) under intense and focused heat will break down the aluminum and can cause rupture. Bottle heaters slowly and safely heat all (or at least the majority) of the bottle on a gradual basis, allowing the bottle to uniformly expand. This heating acclerates the Nitrogen and Oxygen molecules, causing the gas to "expand" which equals more registered bottle pressure.

Okay, I know I sound like a nerd. However, I've run nitrous quite a bit in numerous forms and applications. I find it to be a reliable power adder and I've never had any problem with it in the past. To me, the key is proper set up of both the system and the engine it's on. Combine that with a person with common sense and it makes for a fun time. True, the main draw back will always be having to keep those bottled filled.

it doesnt take a wet kit to cause a nitrous back fire that blows the intake off. my friends civic hatch did it when he let his friend drive it  (both alittle impared) he had about a 30shot dry setup with a w.o.t. stiwch he turned the system on while at a lite and flored it on green which means insante power about 200 in this little car is a hard launch but it back fired from the spray right off of idel.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2005, 01:16:22 PM by ppark350se » Logged

ppark350se
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« Reply #36 on: November 17, 2005, 01:19:13 PM »

and the fire afterwards is a nitrous fire the idiots didnt have a good system it was just on a switch wich caused the nitrous to continue to flow and fuel the fire wich lites the wireing harness on fire and anything left that was flamable.
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2006YFZ450
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« Reply #37 on: November 17, 2005, 02:50:26 PM »

Well that guy with that Civic was an idiot trying to warm up the Nitrous.  Anyways that Banshee has at least 100hp++  and it only weighs about 400lbs. And the power to weight ratio is just nuts.  Why race a civic is a piece of sh*t..
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« Reply #38 on: November 17, 2005, 02:55:23 PM »

Sweet Bansheeeeee!! Grin That thing IS FAST!! Grin Grin Grin
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« Reply #39 on: November 19, 2005, 05:45:09 AM »

Well that guy with that Civic was an idiot trying to warm up the Nitrous.  Anyways that Banshee has at least 100hp++  and it only weighs about 400lbs. And the power to weight ratio is just nuts.  Why race a civic is a piece of sh*t..

i could possibably get ahold of one of the fastest civic in the tampa bay area street legal that is. you and him can line up and run see how big of peice of sh.t that civic is.
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